A Few French Destinations Beyond Paris to Consider
...From Strasbourg to Bordeaux & Northern Brittany, it's mind-and palate-stretching to experience the country beyond the capital
This week, I thought we’d extend our gaze beyond Paris to consider a few cities and regions in France that are well worth exploring.
But before we get to concrete suggestions, I have an embarrassing confession to make: I was once one of those Parisians. The type that people across France pretty much love to hate on. Sure, I wasn’t Parisian-born, but after a few years of living there, I had adopted the sort of caricaturally sneery, sure-of-ones-own superiority ‘tude that residents of the capital are world-famous for. And while I often defend denizens of the capital (they can be so nice! really! I mean it!) I had to pick it up from somewhere.
For a time, I, like many people around me, flippantly aired the opinion that any place outside of Paris, while offering nice prospects for a bit of fresher air, greenery or charme campagnard (country charm), was, well… pretty provincial. “Oh, Toulouse? C’est la province, cà.” (Oh, Toulouse? That’s the provinces).
You can substitute any city or place in France and insert it into the same sentence. I just thought…who would want to live anywhere but Paris, where all the action was, where history and art and food thrummed and hummed, both past and present… and where the “important” stuff happened?
The idea of being “somewhere else” filled me with a vague sense of boredom or even dread…but the truth is, apart from a (wonderful) year abroad in Lyon as an undergrad, I had scarcely been anywhere else in France, and really didn’t know what I was talking about. But I was in my 20’s and early ‘30s (the ultimate excuse for casual ignorance, or is that just a cop-out?) As Bob Dylan would have it, “I was so much older then— I’m younger than that now”.
Anyway, moving right along— let’s ditch Paris for a spell. We’ll start with Strasbourg, a city I’ve come to know fairly well after two recent trips there.
What most bowled me over about Strasbourg is that it manages to feel current and cozy, rustic & completely contemporary at the same time. The residents seem, on the whole, relaxed and friendly— and don’t run around seething with stress and angst the way Parisians so often do (oh look, living in a mid-sized city in so-called “Province” has its perks!). There are great restaurants, museums, wine cellars, lush riverside walks and bike paths for miles, and plenty of interesting, lively streets and squares to meander through.
And the day trip opportunities are abundant— whether to medieval castles perched high on hills, or quaint towns situated right at the gates of the Alsace wine country.
In short? Strasbourg pretty much has it all. Can the Alsatian architecture and its half-timbered facades start to feel a bit kitschy, the fare at the traditional “winstubs” a bit greasy and stodgy? Well, yes, but you just have to make a concerted effort to look beyond all that. There’s plenty of interesting local life to take part in, but it’ll take a bit of a willingness to explore.
I’m also resharing (and de-paywalling) a piece I did a while back on one of the most intriguing of Strasbourg’s smaller museums— and it’s free:
A Wander Through a Ghostly Avant-Garde Experiment
Strasbourg's "Aubette 1928" is quietly mesmerizing...
Next, there’s Bordeaux, a city I came to love after spending six hot but mostly blissful weeks there a few years ago. It’s more relaxed than Paris, but is a remarkably rich, diverse, interesting and vibrant city— especially in the summer, when the terrace culture there hums so joyfully that it really gives the capital a run for its money.
Regrettably, I still haven’t produced a general “guide” to Bordeaux for Paris Unlocked, but I did write something up a few years ago for another outlet that I happily stand by, in terms of the recommendations I make in the piece.
The capital of Aquitaine offers no shortage of things to see & do; it has an enviable nightlife, cafe, restaurant and museum scene, but (like Strasbourg) it still manages to feel sane. Eminently live-able. It has what have become some of my favorite wine bars, markets, and riverside café-music venues (guinguettes), such as the emblematic Guinguette chez Alriq on the right bank of the Garonne river— far less touristy than the left.
Bordeaux is also the best urban hub in France (in my opinion, at least) for exploring some remarkably different areas, from the the nearby walled city of St-Émilion to the Atlantic coastal towns of the Gironde region, to Bergerac, the Dordogne and Aude (Occitanie) regions.
In addition to the lovely St-Émilion and the beach towns just west of Bordeaux, we really enjoyed exploring the Franco-Spanish border at Hendaye, a maritime resort town whose political and military history is quietly fascinating. You can take a quick ferry across the border to Hondaribbia, a Spanish Basque town where you’ll suddenly feel even more “depaysé” (in a state of culture shock); here, the architecture, Basque food and seaside cliff walks are all memorable.
Lastly for today, I’m re-sharing (and removing the paywall from) my recent account of Perros-Guirec, a seaside town in the heart of the sublime “Pink Granite Coast” in northern Brittany. I’ll let that piece speak for itself…
A Whirl Through Perros-Guirec, Brittany
Here, the landscapes were surprisingly warm and colorful: a far cry from the dramatically craggy, rain and wind-beaten terrains of the extreme Atlantic coastal areas. You know— think neatly painted blue and white lighthouses standing triumphantly against crashing waves and grey skies.
Perros and the surrounding coastal area was a refreshing contrast to those familiar Bréton scenes (as much as I’ve often relished in their crashy-waves-and-bleak-lighthouse vibes). As its name suggests, the Côte du Granit Rose is characterised by landscapes studded with warm pinkish granite, often transparent, gentle blue waters and wide, fine-sanded beaches.
Obviously, these are just a few regions among so many worth a closer look across the country. At Substack, I particularly recommend you check out (and follow) the work of Victor Coutard (at How to Get Lost in France) and Betty Carlson (of France in Between), who offer some truly on-the-ground perspectives that also happen to be poetic and witty.
Pivoting back to Paris for a moment, in case you missed our last issue in which we caught you up on summer happenings around the capital, we’ve fully refreshed and updated our mid-year guides. So if you’re around, make sure to take part in the general, sweaty merriment. (And on that note, swimming holes & pop-up pools have never been so abundant, so curing that condition should be easy).
And this weekend (tomorrow!) the annual Marché des Fiertés (Pride March) takes over the streets of the capital, in an event that brings together thousands of LGBTQ Parisians, their families, friends and allies. As a member of this community myself, I can attest that the atmosphere is genuinely welcoming to everyone, and encourage you to go check it out, or even take part in the festivities!
Even though this is (in essence) one of the year’s largest, noisiest and most joyful street parties, I suspect that the mood tomorrow will be just as somber and purposeful as it is fun, given recent backlashes and instances of political backsliding with regard to LGBTQ rights around the world. But that’s another newsletter, and I’ll leave a deeper analysis to the experts.
Lastly for this issue, here’s a quick round-up of France-related stories I’ve been reading off and on Substack in the past couple of weeks, and think you may also find interesting:
In Paris, the city has authorized many cafes, bars and restaurants to keep terraces open until 11pm, and many residents are fuming about the prospect of noise and sleep disturbance (via SortiraParis)
France’s iconic bread and certain types of produce have been found to carry often-unsafe levels of cadmium, sparking public health fears and prompting a call for farmers to change their practices (what has this world come to when you suddenly have to worry that the superb baguette from the corner bakery might give you an unhealthy dose of a carcinogenic heavy metal?) (via Food Navigator)
Magnolia, a new favorite for small plates in Paris, has taken the city by storm (via Paris by Mouth)
Hell bent on overpaying for everything in Paris? Here’s how to spend more than you need to (from Victor Coutard)
Gen-Xer (like me)? You may be hard-wired to endure the punishing boredom and quivering uncertainties of French bureaucracy, congrats! (from Rich Kagan)
Well, that’s a wrap for our main June newsletter, les ami/es. If you’re able to, please consider becoming a “Donor” subscriber or “Star Supporter” (you’ll currently get 20% off for annual plans, making an ideal gift!) For less than a cost of a couple of barista coffee drinks every month, you’ll get access to our ample archive of Paris and France-related features, opinion pieces, film & TV reviews, travel tips & in-depth itineraries— plus a free consultation with yours truly by email, to help you plan any future trips and offer personalized suggestions for your stay.
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Until next time, stay as cool as you can amid the sweltering “new normal” of late June,
— Courtney
More Features at Paris Unlocked
Roaming Montmartre: More Than a Scenic Parisian Village
Inside the Musée Henner, an Underrated Jewel
Some of the Best Butter Croissants to Taste in the Capital
Can You Swim in the Seine, Post-Olympics?
Thank you so much for the kind mention. France is never-ending, but I understand your Paris obsession -- it remains my favorite city anywhere.
I've also taken the boat from Hendaye across the border and thought it was a fun jaunt. And I've been to all of the big cities you mention, with Strasbourg being a particular favorite. I was lucky enough to spend 3 10-day periods there on a professional study program; life there was certainly night and day different from the southern reaches I've gotten so used to.