A Month of Re-Openings, From Borders to Museums & Restaurants
Plus, What to See in Every Paris Neighborhood, & an Exclusive Weeklong Itinerary
I know that I've been opening every newsletter for the past couple of months with the same sense of elated relief at things inching towards normal— so it's probably starting to sound a bit redundant. Chalk it up to my (pleasant) shock at the steady stream of cheering news, after a year and a half of anything but.
Vaccination rates have soared in France after a painfully sluggish start, and the country has now pulled ahead in the (globally lopsided) race to get at least one dose in the arms of all its citizens. Covid case numbers, hospitalizations and deaths are lower than they have been in months, thanks in part to these aforementioned efforts.
And France is pursuing its staged re-opening plan with what looks like cautious success. After resuming service outdoors at restaurants and cafes and welcoming visitors back to museums and monuments last month, France is re-opening its border to Americans and other tourists from many countries outside the European Union as of June 9th— as long as they're fully vaccinated and/or submit negative test results.
Late May and June also saw several exciting re-openings. First, the Musée Carnavalet, with a free collection dedicated to the history of Paris, welcomed visitors again for the first time since 2019, after some ambitious renovations. It's more beautiful, and accessible, than ever— I'm excited to check out what's changed at one of my favorite city museums.
Next, the iconic department store La Samaritaine is finally slated to open its doors later this month after its own multi-million Euro remaking by luxury group LVMH.
Many have missed the store and its Art-Nouveau facade overlooking the Pont Neuf,— even if some are less than thrilled at its being transformed into yet another temple to ultra-luxury (the store, opened in 1869, once catered more to the working and middle classes, not the rich).
And of course, as I mentioned in my last newsletter, last month also saw the much-awaited inauguration of the Bourse de Commerce-Pinault Collection, a new center for contemporary art in the capital.
Summer festival season is also running at near-full speed, albeit with safety measures like crowd control and night curfews in place. The beloved Fête de la Musique (street music festival) is back on in time for the summer solstice on June 21st.
And Paris Gay Pride (Marché des Fiertés) will be back this year after being entirely cancelled in 2020, starting this time from the northern suburb of Pantin to mark a need for more visibility of (and solidarity with) LGBTQ+ communities outside the Parisian city limits.
To get an overview of what's on this month and more details on some of the big-ticket festivals and shows, see my full and updated guide to June in the capital.
On another exciting note, and just in time for the re-opening of the border to many travelers, I've created a mammoth guide to all 20 Paris arrondissements, with tips on what to see & do in each city district.
From the Latin Quarter to Batignolles, Belleville to Passy and Oberkampf, this is the definitive Paris neighborhood guide. Bookmark it for future trips, or share with friends who haven't been yet. I hope it's helpful. Also let me know if you like the format as is, or would prefer a guide with separate links and pages for each of the arrondissements. I appreciate your feedback!
Finally, I've cooked up two new exclusive features for paid subscribers to the Paris Unlocked newsletter:
Start with a self-guided, weeklong itinerary for Paris, Versailles, and part of Champagne— a detailed guide that includes suggestions for lunch and dinner near each attraction, a clickable Google Map, and my personal insights into making the most of each activity on the itinerary.
Secondly, I riff a bit on my own “imaginary Paris" and missing the city from afar— taking cues from painter Marc Chagall and writer Italo Calvino in this new essay on how dreams can help consolidate our relationships to places we love.
If you haven't yet, please consider upgrading to a paid subscription for this newsletter. In addition to gaining full access to my archive of exclusive articles on the capital and other destinations in France— including itineraries and essays like the ones above— you'll get breaking news on France that's relevant to travelers, and a personal e-mail consultation to help you plan your next trip to France, with recommendations and advice from yours truly.
There's no limit or “expiration date” on when you'll be able to redeem your consultation (or consultations in the plural, for those who subscribe annually/as a “Founder”).
Not least, you'll be offering precious support and encouragement towards the growth of the site, and nurturing more free, in-depth features for culturally curious travelers like you.
“Merci” for your support!
That's about it for now. As always, please feel very free to suggest topics or areas of coverage you'd like to see at Paris Unlocked or in the newsletter, as I'm keen to better reflect your interests. Simply hit “reply” to this email, or write to editor@parisunlocked.com.
Enjoy the long summer days as we approach the solstice!
—Courtney