Feting the Year-End, à la Française
...plus, vintage shopping in Paris, a review of this year's Cannes winner, & tracing Ernest Hemingway's travels
Dear Subscribers,
There’s a faint yet heady aroma of orange, cinnamon, cardamom and clove hovering in my house: the remnants of yet another batch of mulled wine we whipped up yesterday evening. We're about to head off on another long trip to see family in North America, and I for one am looking forward to the possibility of getting lost in a novel for the first time in a while (any suggestions?)
I’m a firm believer in the idea that our bodily rhythms are primed to do a bit less at this time of year, though it’s precisely the moment when so many of us dash around maniacally, gripped by (almost performative?) pre-holiday stress.
And while this is a bit of an overgeneralization, one of the things that I most appreciate about French culture is the (common) expectation that when you take a vacation, you’re truly off-radar and off-limits . No sneaking work e-mails or calls in, or checking phones for updates on a project. My French clients never expect to hear from me while I’m on leave. And time to consecrate to family, friends or even oneself is considered quasi-sacred among many employers in France. When I say I need time off, the response is typically “Bien sûr” (of course!)
It’s all part of the “work to live, rather than live to work” approach to things that tends to set France apart from les pays anglo-saxons, as they would put it— though precarious work conditions are on the rise for many in France as they are elsewhere in the world. It’s certainly not a utopia— and the “Yellow Vest” protests attest to the desperation many in France have felt in recent years amid stagnating wages and bad inflation. But even as a self-employed person who works under somewhat precarious conditions, I see a difference.
On a somewhat related note, let’s now turn to take a look at French and Parisian year-end traditions, which tend to encourage the sort of relaxed approach to things, and celebrations, that I mention above. I’ve primarily focused on Christmas traditions, though the enjoyment of holiday lights and decorations, markets and other seasonal fare doesn’t necessarily have to be associated with observing the Christian holiday. For me, they’ve always been secular, but still meaningful and warming, annual rituals.
We start with a look at French holiday traditions to try out at home or while roaming abroad, from the lighting of lamps and candles in early December to the Provencal ritual of concocting “13 desserts” for Christmas. These can (I think) easily be adapted at home to whatever year-end traditions you observe— and can certainly make traveling in France more enjoyable at this time of year.
Next, get inspired to shake up your sweet offerings with our look at typical French Christmas desserts to try out at home.
These 5 traditional meal-enders hail from Alsace, Provence, and other regions of France, and can really add an interesting twist to your holiday table.
Next up, our fully updated guide to celebrating Christmas and the winter holidays in Paris will help steer you to all the places in the capital that have been festooned and lit to counter the dark December evenings.
This year, there are over a dozen holiday markets operating around the city, as well as hundreds of illuminated streets light your evening walk, department store windows festooned with animated and glittering decor, ice skating rinks— you get the idea. It’s not exactly difficult to stumble on a celebratory mood.
The article also offers plenty of tips on reserving a holiday-themed table or city tour, for anyone interested in celebrating in a more formal way.
Also see our peek at festive goings-on in our reel at Instagram:
Turning our attention to new features at Paris Unlocked, we start with some tips on how to happen on treasures in the city’s many excellent vintage boutiques. The past few years have witnessed remarkable growth in the secondhand clothing market, driven by the rising cost of living and increased environmental awareness. “Fast fashion” is increasingly out of style, especially among younger consumers.
In the style-conscious French capital, "les friperies" (secondhand clothing shops) have been around since the 16th century— but the vintage shopping scene in Paris is far from stuck in the past.
The city boasts an eclectic range of vintage and secondhand shops, where one can uncover all sorts of treasures, from high-end fashion pieces and funky jewelry to budget-friendly winter coats. If you’re ready to rummage, beeline to these fantastic vintage shops in the capital, conveniently organized by neighborhood. There's even a clickable custom map to help you orient yourself and find each of the recommended stops.
Next, I recently discovered Chocolat Chapon on a quiet street in Paris’ Saint-Germain district— and was immediately struck by how quaint and traditional it felt.
In stark contrast to the nearby Patrick Roger, with its shiny counters in dark colors, low light and sparse interiors– elements frankly more befitting of a luxury jewellery boutique than a chocolate shop– walking into Chapon felt like stepping back into a warm, unpretentious sweets shop of a past era, with few “luxe” design codes in sight.
Chapon’s nostalgic aesthetic may suggest that it’s been around for decades– but that’s a clever marketing trick. Chapon and its chocolaterie (chocolate manufacturing arm) first opened its doors in the Parisian region in the late 1980s, after Patrice Chapon, former ice-cream maker for Buckingham Palace, decided to venture into making his own chocolates.
In 2023, the company was bought by a group called FrenchFood Capital, which could mean expansion for the brand is on the horizon. But before it shows up closer to you, here’s why to visit Chapon on your next trip to Paris.
Bringing 2023 to an end, I’ve got three recent exclusive posts for paid subscribers this month (and remember, you can take advantage of a 7-day free trial to read these, or any features in our now-ample archive at Substack, that may interest you).
First, read my spoiler-free review of “Anatomy of a Fall”, the smart French murder mystery that snagged the Palme d’Or (Cannes’ top prize) this year— and surprised me in any number of ways.
I think this is a film that has the potential to win over a much wider audience than would “normally” flock to a French arthouse joint. For one thing, it has none of the meandering (and frustrating?) narrative qualities that the genre is so often associated with.
Nope. There’s a juicy psychological and legal puzzle at the heart of this gorgeously-shot, subtly executed and satisfyingly probed murder mystery.
On the topic of train travel and new possibilities for visitors traveling between France and other destinations in Europe, it looks as if Eurostar’s long monopoly over train routes in the Channel Tunnel is about to end. This looks like good news for travelers’ budgets— and for the ability of rail to compete with airlines.
Last but certainly not least, I thought I’d switch gears a bit to offer you a conversation (in both print and audio form) with Cristen Hemingway Jaynes, the author of a book I recently read and can fully recommend.
I hope you enjoy our conversation on the life, writings and travels of one Ernest Hemingway— which includes a now-almost obligatory discussion around whether, and why, we should continue reading his work in an era that often balks against devoting attention to “canonical” white male authors.
If you enjoy this audio feature, please let me know so I can make sure to roll out more in the future. It’s a bit of a learning curve, but one I’m eager to keep pursuing— and it would be helpful for me to know whether you’d like to hear more audio content at this newsletter.
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Well, that’s a wrap for 2023. I wish you all a laid-back, joyful, memorable holiday season. As the year comes to a close, I want to reiterate how grateful I am for your continued support and readership. I also encourage you to visit the Paris Unlocked website to dig into our archive of in-depth stories, features and France-related travel tips. Scroll down to see a few I recommend this month.
Until 2024, be well.