The Ultimate Paris Trip-Planning Toolkit (& It's Free!)
Plus, Scrumptious Street Food, March Happenings, Art-Deco Toilets & More
Dear Readers,
Before I delve into this somewhat-overdue issue (mea culpa for the delay), I wanted to thank all of those who threw their hat in the ring for last month’s book giveaway!
The answer to the pop-quiz question was “Patricia in ‘Breathless’ (or À Bout de Souffle), the classic film from the late Director Jean-Luc Godard. Some of you wisely noted that the quotation (“Entre le néant et le chagrin, je choisis le chagrin”) is in fact a reference to a line in William Faulkner’s 1939 novel “If I Forget Thee, Jerusalem”.
Congratulations to the reader who was the first to answer correctly and win a free copy of Kerri Maher’s The Paris Bookseller. Look out for more giveaways in future newsletters.
Moving on to this week’s leading topic, I recently decided it was time to put together an utterly practical (and hopefully useful) guide that would answer some of the most common questions I get about planning a trip to the capital.
While as a writer, I obviously prefer to work on “sexier” topics, I’m aware that many first-time visitors to Paris have some shared concerns— even anxieties— about a few common areas. Where to stay? How to save money on eating out? How to avoid getting ripped off? How to decide when to go? What sorts of tours are worth booking, especially when you’re largely unfamiliar with the city?
I’ve aimed to answer all these questions (and more) in my free, information-packed guide to planning a first trip to Paris. I hope it’s of use to you or someone you know who may not know exactly where to start— and do let me know if you think there’s a topic I haven’t covered in the existing feature.
Need even more advice? You can also see my related guide on common mistakes to avoid when plotting a trip to France. This is an ideal starting point if you’re aiming to visit several regions in the country and need a practical overview of how to best prepare for your sojourn.
Next up, March marks an interesting point in the year when the winter quiet is coming to a slow thaw, but the rush of high season has yet to descend on the city.
Our updated guide to what’s on in Paris this March will give you everything you need to enjoy your stay to the fullest this month— or offer inspiration if you’re considering a visit at this time next year.
Moving on to more delicious terrain, Paris Unlocked Contributor Rachel Naismith recently worked to make our guide to the best street food in Paris more complete, and tempting, than ever.
She heroically tasted everything from gourmet donuts to Vietnamese banh-mi sandwiches and creative burgers from various vendors around the capital, weighing in on some of the tastiest (and cheapest) places for a light bite around Paris.
If you’re on a tight budget, follow up by perusing our advice on how to eat out on the cheap in Paris, without giving up on the dream of tasting the best the city has to offer.
Next, I’ve got several new features and op-eds for paid subscribers this month. I start with an exploration of Aubette 1928, the ghostly remains of an avant-garde experiment in Strasbourg that left me utterly captivated.
Housed on two floors of an 18th-century building on the bustling Place Kleber, just blocks from the Cathedral, the “Aubette” is the work of artists Sophie Taeuber-Arp, Jean Arp, and Theo van Doesburg.
There’s a curious and jarring disjunction between the staid statuary and columns of the neoclassical building in which it’s situated, and the radical, yet subtly executed, interiors of the Aubette.
The three artists remodeled four floors inside to create a “leisure space” that would reflect the artistic aspirations and goals of the De Stijl movement (of which Piet Mondrian is the most famous participant).
Next, there’s been much speculation lately that the French wine industry might be on the verge of an existential crisis, if not collapse— but not for the reasons you might think.
As I explore in this op-ed for paid subscribers, French vintners face headwinds in the form of younger generations who are, well, just not as interested in drinking. How might they respond to these new consumer trends? And is all the talk of “la crise” just more predictable French hyperbole?
Last but not least, I was both interested and amused to see that the city of Paris recently re-opened a lavish lavatory dating to the Belle Epoque, after partnering with a Dutch company that’s made renovating historic loos its lucrative business.
While the gorgeous Art-Nouveau details in the renovated lavatories on the Place de la Madeline are indeed noteworthy, I rolled my eyes a bit at the news, given what I and many others see as Paris’ terrible-toilets problem.
As I note in this new post for paid subscribers, the city has a long way to go when it comes to catching up with other European countries in terms of providing safe, hygienic and accessible public bathrooms.
If you're able to, please consider upgrading to a paid subscription for this humble newsletter. You'll not only get full access to my archive of exclusive articles on the capital and other destinations in France— including in-depth travel itineraries, stories and reviews like the ones above. You'll also get breaking news on France that's relevant to travelers, op-eds, and a complimentary e-mail consultation to help you plan your next trip to France, with personalized recommendations and advice.
Of course, there's no “expiration date” on your consultation (or consultations in the plural, for those who subscribe annually/as a “Founder”). And you'll be offering precious support and encouragement towards the growth of the site— making it possible for me and my small team to create more free, in-depth features for culturally curious travelers like you.
Thank you for your support!
That’s about all I’ve got to report this time around. As always, I appreciate your continued support and readership, and make sure to visit the Paris Unlocked website to peruse our significant archive of France-related features, travel tips, histories and stories. Scroll down to see just a few I suggest this month.
Merçi bien! I’ve not been to Paris since late 2018! I miss it so. I can close my eyes and I’m there.
There is SO much good info here. Thank you. (I have seen worse bathrooms in Paris than I ever saw in 16 years in Africa 😂, so I am thrilled that the Madeleine bathrooms are open again!)