Waning, then Waxing: Towards a New Parisian Year
...a full guide to what's on the horizon in January, plus a few cozy ideas for finishing out or starting the year
Like many of you (hopefully) are, I’m gearing up for a much-needed break starting early next week. The increasingly dark days have always signaled a time for extra rest, for humans and most other animals. And the end-of-year holidays are probably one of the only times when I fully give into that primal need, neoliberal capitalist guilt be damned. But before I sign off for the remainder of the year, I wanted to look ahead to what’s on the horizon in 2025. In this December issue, I also offer a few suggestions for how to inject some coziness and contemplation into the waning days if you’re lucky enough to be in Paris this month.
Let’s start with a look at what’s around the corner in the capital this coming January— a time often maligned by Parisians, known to descend into pure hyperbole on this topic. In their account, the city becomes a miserable, soul-devouring and depressing place that might easily have featured as one of Dante’s nine circles of hell.
I’ve never shared those sentiments, needless to say. Perhaps my years of wishing for a “real” winter as a child in Southern California (coupled with my vast preference for chilly conditions over sweltering ones) have made me a better candidate for enjoying the opening month of the year in Europe.
In short, where many see endless blight and a depressing lull in excitement, I see stillness, peace and a welcome thinning of crowds and lines. The holiday buzz has passed and there’s again space for reflection, quiet and food that won’t make you feel like an overstuffed foie gras (side note: poor geese). But in early January, you can often still enjoy things like Christmas markets and decor, ice-skating rinks and seasonal exhibits, since in many cases these only get packed up towards the end of the first week of the year.
See our fully updated guide to what to see n’ do in Paris this coming January— including full details at the end on how to celebrate the annual, now mostly secularized “King’s Festival” with a traditional galette des rois.
Moving right along, whether you’re exploring Paris in the final days of 2024, will be heading there next month or are simply mulling a future trip to France sometime in winter, there are a number of ways to make the darkest period of the year degrees cozier and more pleasant.
First, take refuge in one of these historic and/or locally beloved cinemas to get out of the cold. Many show films in English and other languages with French subtitles, so you don’t need to know the language to get the full cinematic experience in a city that literally screens hundreds of films every week.
Our full guide includes tips on where and how to look for screenings in “V.O” (original version or language), taking some of the cultural guesswork (and headaches) out of it all.
For an inexpensive lunch or afternoon treat and some necessary warmth, duck into one of these superb Parisian creperies for lunch, or have afternoon tea at a local tearoom, complete with cake, macarons or savory fare like finger sandwiches and quiches.
And when braving the icy, wet streets feels forbidding, roaming the quieter exhibition rooms at one of these small, often-overlooked Parisian museums can be an ideal solution.
Also make a getaway by spending a few hours exploring some of the city’s weirder and quirkier collections. You’ll be regaled with an in-depth look at things like magic and lore, police history, or the creepy archaeological and sanitary origins of the Catacombs, replete with millions of skulls and bones.
And finally, while Parisians aren’t totally exaggerating when they complain that January can be wet and miserable, there’s no reason to sit around griping about it (unless, of course, you’re aiming to fully emulate local habits). Instead, choose something from our guide to rainy-day Paris, and try to embrace the poetry in it all.
If you missed last month’s issue, there’s a glut of seasonally-appropriate stuff to do around town, throughout December and (in many cases) into early January.
Christmas markets, elaborate holiday window dressings at Paris’ Belle-Epoque department stores, ice-skating rinks, festive holiday tables and exhibits— it’s all in our fully updated guide to celebrating Christmas this year in Paris.
And if you’re planning on braving what look to be looong waiting lists and lines to visit the recently-reincarnated Notre-Dame Cathedral, you’ll need stamina. Getting hangry isn’t a good idea.
Meg Zimbeck of Paris by Mouth has a fabulous, hunger-preventing companion guide to the re-opening, with suggestions on good places to eat out around the Cathedral.
Next up, I’ve got two exclusive posts for paid subscribers this month. For those of you with free subscriptions, you can always cash in on your free “teaser” post to read one of these— or sign up for a no-obligations, 7-day free trial to the paid version of this newsletter!
If you’re able to and haven’t yet done so, please consider upgrading to a paid subscription. For less than a cost of a couple of barista coffee drinks every month, you’ll get access to our ample archive of Paris and France-related features, opinion pieces, film & TV reviews, travel tips & in-depth itineraries— plus a free consultation with yours truly by email, to help you plan a forthcoming trip. I dare claim that’s much better value than two (or fewer!) cloying gingerbread-spice-lattes.
That’s a wrap for this last issue of 2024, les ami/es. I wish you all a restful year-end, and can’t tell you how much I appreciate your readership and support. It makes this sometimes-lonely endeavor more than worthwhile. Merci!
Bonne fin de l’année et bonnes fêtes! (A happy year-end and happy holidays!)
— Courtney
More Features at Paris Unlocked
French Christmas Desserts to Try at Home This Season
A Peek Inside Chapon, an Iconic Parisian Chocolate-Maker
Where to Find Non-Cliché Gifts in Paris?
Looking (Hopefully) Ahead: Springtime in the Capital
The Weird, Winding History of French Macarons
